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Roys Peak Track & Lake Wanaka – A Hike (and a Detour) on New Zealand's South Island
In early September 2016, I arrived in New Zealand from Australia. It was my very first time in the country, and I started it the best way I can imagine: with a month-long road trip through the South Island.
Lake Tekapo had already been in a league of its own, then came Lake Pukaki, and then Wanaka. That's the thing about New Zealand: around every corner your jaw drops all over again. Wanaka was no exception.
A hike we heard about by chance
Someone told us that Roys Peak was a beautiful hike, so we decided on the spot: we're doing this. We set off in the morning – no sunrise for us, but early enough to have the whole day ahead.
September in New Zealand is early spring. The air was still fresh and cold, but it wasn't winter anymore. And as soon as you start climbing, you warm up quickly. The track zigzags steadily up the mountainside, and the higher you get, the bigger the view over the lake becomes. With a reasonable level of fitness, it's a very doable hike.
Never leave the track
Unless, of course, you decide to take a shortcut. At some point we left the official path because we were sure we'd spotted a better way up. It turned out to be nothing but a sheep trail. We followed it along a fence and suddenly found ourselves clinging to a seriously steep slope, scrambling until we finally made it back to the real track.
That detour was the truly exhausting part. Looking back, I still have to laugh about it – but trust me: stay on the marked track.
Lucky at the top
Roys Peak rises to 1,578 metres, and from the summit you look out over Lake Wanaka, its islands and bays, and the snow-capped Southern Alps all the way to Mount Aspiring/Tititea. When we reached the top, the sun came out. We were incredibly lucky.
When the weather turns: That Wanaka Tree
In the mountains, the weather changes fast. By the afternoon, the light had already turned grey and moody. Down by the lake, we visited That Wanaka Tree, the lone willow standing in the water of Roys Bay and probably the most photographed tree in New Zealand. No sunshine this time, just soft grey tones – and somehow that suited it too.
Tips for hiking the Roys Peak Track
- Distance and time: The track is 16 km return on the same path. Plan for around 5 to 6 hours. The summit lies at 1,578 m.
- Check the closure: The track crosses private farmland and is closed for lambing every year from 1 October to 10 November. Isthmus Peak Track is a good alternative during that time.
- Getting there: The car park is about 6 km from Wanaka on the Wanaka–Mount Aspiring Road. It fills up fast, especially in summer, so start early or walk or cycle there via the Waterfall Creek Track.
- The famous photo spot: The well-known viewpoint is about 30 minutes below the summit. If you have the energy, keep going to the top.
- Pack properly: There's almost no shade and no drinking water along the track. Bring plenty of water, sun protection and warm layers.
- Winter and early spring: Expect snow, ice and mud, and short days. Above 1,000 m there is avalanche terrain, so check conditions before you go.
- Stay on the track: Seriously. Sheep trails are not shortcuts. Leave gates as you find them and keep your distance from livestock.
From the summit to the studio: Konfetti im Wald
The view from Roys Peak became one half of my artwork Konfetti im Wald. I mirrored it four times, horizontally and vertically, until the lake and mountains turned into a pattern of their own. Years later, I layered it with a photo of autumn leaves from the hills around Arrowtown, where I lived for a while. Two places, two different times, one picture.
