Daintree Rainforest & Cape Tribulation – Fan Palms, Cassowaries and the World's Oldest Rainforest

I spent a year in Australia on a working holiday. After some time in the Atherton Tablelands, I set off on a month-long road trip through Queensland – north along the coast, past Port Douglas, and all the way up into the Daintree.

Into the oldest rainforest on Earth

The Daintree Rainforest is estimated to be around 180 million years old, which makes it one of the oldest rainforests in the world. It's part of the Wet Tropics of Queensland, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and it's the traditional country of the Eastern Kuku Yalanji people.

To get there, you cross the Daintree River on a small cable ferry. On the other side, the road narrows, the forest closes in, and it really does feel like entering another world.

Sounds, colours and giant fan palms

What struck me first were the sounds: birds, insects and rustling in the undergrowth, all at once and from every direction. The sheer variety of plants is overwhelming, with ferns, vines, strangler figs and layer upon layer of green.

The easiest way to experience it is on one of the boardwalks that lead through the forest. The one I remember most was lined with giant fan palms, their huge round leaves spreading out above the path like umbrellas. Standing beneath them is where my artwork Daintree began.

Meeting a cassowary

Then there are the cassowaries. These huge, flightless birds look like they've walked straight out of the age of the dinosaurs, with their bright blue necks and the helmet-like crest on their heads. I was lucky enough to see one twice. They're endangered and can be dangerous if they feel threatened, so if you see one, keep your distance, never feed it, and drive slowly through the rainforest.

Cape Tribulation: where the rainforest meets the reef

At the end of the road lies Cape Tribulation, one of the few places on Earth where two World Heritage Sites meet: the rainforest runs right down to the beach, and just offshore lies the Great Barrier Reef. The name goes back to James Cook, whose ship ran aground on the reef nearby in 1770.

Walking along the beach with the jungle at your back and the sea in front of you is one of those moments that's hard to put into words.

Tips for visiting the Daintree and Cape Tribulation

• Getting there: Cape Tribulation is about a 2.5-hour drive north of Cairns, or around 1.5 hours from Port Douglas. The road is sealed all the way, so you don't need a 4WD unless you plan to continue further north.
• Boardwalks: Several short, easy boardwalks lead through the rainforest, including the Marrdja Boardwalk with its fan palms and mangroves, the Dubuji Boardwalk near Cape Tribulation, and the Jindalba Boardwalk. They're a perfect way to see the forest without a guide.
• Crocodiles: Saltwater crocodiles live in the rivers, creeks and coastal waters. Don't swim there, and always follow the warning signs.
• Stingers: From roughly October to May, dangerous jellyfish can be in the sea, so swimming isn't recommended without a stinger suit.
• Best time to visit: The dry season, from about May to October, is the most comfortable time. In the wet season, heavy rain can close roads.
• Stay a night: If you can, sleep in the Daintree instead of doing a day trip. Mornings and evenings in the rainforest are something else.

From the rainforest to the studio

The giant fan palms of the Daintree became the starting point for the Daintree Woven Cotton Blanket – a piece of the world's oldest rainforest, reimagined for your home.